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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.